Chicago's Juliana Experts

Juliana Jewelry Buyers & D&E Authentication

Juliana jewelry by D&E (DeLizza & Elster) from the 1960s-1990s. Most pieces are UNSIGNED - identification requires expert knowledge of construction techniques. We specialize in D&E authentication.

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About Juliana Jewelry

Juliana jewelry was produced by DeLizza & Elster (D&E) from the 1960s through the 1990s. Unlike many other costume jewelry manufacturers, D&E rarely marked their pieces, making identification challenging for collectors. The Juliana line is known for its elaborate designs, dimensional construction, and exceptional use of art glass and rhinestones.

D&E Construction Hallmarks

Since most Juliana pieces are unsigned, identification relies on recognizing these distinctive construction techniques.

Five-Link Hinges

Brooch closures with 5 small metal links - a hallmark of D&E construction

Two-Part Construction

Stone settings attached separately from base metalwork

Figure-8 Puddling

Distinctive solder marks on the back of pieces

Foil-Backed Stones

Bright, reflective backing on rhinestones

What Makes Juliana Valuable

Several factors determine the value of Juliana and D&E jewelry.

Complexity

Multi-layered, dimensional designs command higher prices

Stone Variety

Art glass, rhinestones, and cabochons increase value

Color Combinations

Bold, unusual color pairings are highly sought after

Construction Quality

Heavy, well-made pieces indicate authentic D&E work

Attributing Unsigned Juliana: A Real Example

Because DeLizza & Elster rarely signed their own jewelry, Juliana attribution is a construction-reading exercise — and it's why so many valuable D&E pieces get sold for a few dollars at estate sales by people who assume unsigned means worthless. A past-sale example from our inventory is the Juliana D&E tulip brooch in autumnal tones pictured in our gallery below: an unsigned, dimensional brooch in one of the line's signature tulip motifs, with the layered stone work D&E produced from the 1960s through the 1990s.

When a piece like that comes in, we authenticate it step by step. We flip the brooch and look for the five-link hinge on the pin mechanism — a hallmark of D&E construction — along with figure-8 puddling in the solder on the reverse. We check whether the stone settings were built as separate components and attached to the base metalwork (two-part construction), and we examine the stones themselves for the bright foil backing D&E favored. Weight matters too: authentic Juliana pieces are heavy, with dense metalwork that lighter imitations can't match.

Motif and scale drive value. Tulip, fruit, and floral designs are the classic Juliana forms, and within the roughly $50 to $500+ range we see for the line, large statement brooches and complete parures sit at the top. Even unsigned pieces can be quite valuable when the construction checks out — so before you sell an unsigned rhinestone brooch as a generic piece, let us look at the hinge and the solder. Those two details alone often settle the attribution.

One more wrinkle: D&E produced jewelry for many other brands during those same decades, so identical five-link-hinge construction turns up under other names — and other companies copied the look without the construction. That overlap is exactly why we authenticate Juliana in person whenever possible. Bold, unusual color combinations like the autumnal palette on the tulip brooch are a strong indicator, but the metalwork underneath is what confirms a piece as genuine D&E.

Juliana Jewelry Examples

Examples of Juliana pieces we've authenticated and purchased.

Juliana D&E tulip autumnal brooch

Juliana Jewelry FAQ

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Expert D&E authentication and fair prices. We specialize in unsigned Juliana identification.

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